Last Updated on August 29, 2023 by ILGM Ninjas
OK, I will be the first to admit that the word “Liquid Aeration” sounds pretty hokey, and that is compounded by the practice of service providers being misinformed themselves or selling something without explaining what it does or just trying to generate money without any focus or objective outcome. Let’s examine what the purpose of soil porosity is and why it is important. But let’s start off with our good old friends of microbiology.
A healthy soil will exhibit some characteristics any place on Earth where photosynthesis is possible. If you stick a shovel in a soil that is healthy it will have the appearance of cottage cheese. The reason for this is due to the presence of fungal populations, the healthy kind such as Mycorrhizal fungi. Fungi secrete a substance called glomalin. This organic glue forms the soil into small “balls” of soil aggregate that allow air, water and nutrients into the soil and naturally create voids in the soil that “aerate” the soil along with other micro and macrobiology. These natural forces churn the soil and allow natural forces to cycle nutrients in and out of the soil.
Mechanical aeration was created after the advent of the introduction of synthetic fertilizers. People are sold on the benefits of core aeration, water infiltration, better air exchange, improving root development, compaction control and thatch management but the steel tine of the aerator only goes down a couple inches typically if it is done right. Most aerations are performed under terrible conditions, typically dry. Water acts as a lubricant so that the tine will penetrate but most aerations are performed in the spring a month or two before the irrigation systems are turned on, not good. While aeration does work you disturb the soil which can impact the fungal webs, and the lessening of compaction is short lived as the plugs that are left on the surface (don’t ever ask to have them picked up that is way too time consuming) go back into the soil, filling the core holes with soil again. The thatch that is accumulated is indeed penetrated but the presence of thatch is really a soil failure and while the aeration does not alter the pH or the biology this is really just a brief temporary side effect of the aeration itself.
Now enter “Liquid aeration” I will clarify what this means for you so you will be aware of what is out there. Most people in the past that used this term were using surfactants, while useful they do not aerate the soil. Surfactants simply reduce the surface tension of the water so it can work better. These products are used routinely to counter the effects of hard water. They are used in agriculture to maximize product penetration and they are used in laundry detergent or otherwise your clothes would never get clean. What we use to provide aeration is an integral part of an overall strategy to increase carbon in the soil and what we use has humic acid in it which is a form of carbon. Humic acids high carbon content provides food for microbe, improving soil ecology. Their primary benefit is their ability to chelate nutrients, specifically their ability to hold onto ions. Their negative charge attracts ions with positively charged ions in the soil. This creates spaces in the soil. The negatively charged plant root has a stronger negative charge which attracts these humic particles and their attached ions (iron, magnesium, copper, zinc, etc. This in essence force feeds the plant root allowing the plant root to use them for growth and repair. This product actually improves and advances the ecology of the soil which in turn promotes healthy microbiology which it what should be aerating the soil in the first place. If you have healthy fungal populations you will not need mechanical core aeration.
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So you’re saying there’s an actual liquid aeration product on the market right now, more effective for my TIFTUF BERMUDA lawn, in Peoria Arizona, as opposed to a mechanical or manual aeration tool with backbreaking intense labor included??? HONESTLY? What product does this of course backed up scientifically with 100% satisfaction guaranteed to work or $$$ refunded??
Thank you for your question. My purpose in the lawn forum was not so much about a product but a process. The mindset of one thing that will do everything is a part of the synthetic method of fertility. There are two methods, Synthetic and Biological. Synthetic fertilizers were invented in Germany and came to America in the 1930’s. Synthetic fertilizers simply destroy soil.
Your question about Bermuda or warm season grasses is not unique, all grasses are classified as monocots and behave in very similar ways. This is what makes them a grass or monocot. My point about humic acids were more about the soil and their affect on it.
Humic acids raise soil CEC. Humic acids are a part of what is known as Humus. Humus is the fuel for the biology in the soil and contributes to the water carrying capacity of the soil. I know a farmer that can infiltrate and store 70+ inches of water because their soils are high in organic matter, or humus, so it doesn’t really matter what you are growing, the fundamentals of the soil are all fundamentally the same.
We use a biological method rather than a synthetic one. I have been in business for 30 years this year and adopted the biological method back in 2017. I have spent more than 2000 hours studying soil biology and chemistry and we are developing lawns that use 50% less resources that don’t have disease or weeds and look better for longer than those using the other method.
here are a couple videos of some other companies that have some videos that will convey this idea that I watched 7 & 8 years ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKzwgJMy0sQ&t=2s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ugaL6wsXME&t=5s&pp=ygULbGl2aW5nIHNvaWw%3D
I don’t sell products per se, I do have a DIY program that I am developing on Skool that helps people understand what I have learned and how to adopt what we have adopted. If you are interested I can send you a link.